It is my day off and I decide to head to Essaouira.
Located on the windy Atlantic coast, it has played a major role as an international trading seaport. With its long beach, calm harbour and friendly locals, it is one of the most tranquil spots I have visited in Morocco so far. Music and art are two of the biggest draws of this little town. I read that Jimi Hendrix once sojourned here and wrote the song Castles Made of Sand while he was in Essaouria (although the album was released in 1967 and he traveled to Essaouira in 1969) so this is probably just another myth.
One of the highlights of the trip was the travel to Essaouira. I was told that CTM or Supratour were the two best bus companies to travel with (it did not come to my mind to book tickets beforehand). So I get to Agadir bus station and both these companies tell me that all their buses are fully booked (being it one of the most popular destination to travel to they only have one bus service per day – isn’t that crazy?). I end up on a national Moroccan bus (ripped off as usual. I was charged 70dhs and then I witness a local not even paying half of that – 30dhs!). These buses are not the most modern or comfortable modes of transport – let’s put it that way. I sat on the right side of the bus and was melting in the sun (their rather meagre curtains did not help whatsoever!). With limited ways of getting air, it got stifling hot, not to mention that Moroccans are used to the heat so most of the time they do not consider it hot enough to open the windows (I do not know how women survive on these buses with all that clothing they have to wear). After about 1h I felt like I was in a sauna (I still had 2h30mins to go!). The man sitting next to me (I do have to point out he was wearing a sweater in this heat and did not take it off the whole journey) kept getting closer and closer to me almost touching my bum! It got to a point I had to pat him on the shoulder and kindly ask him to please move away from me.
On a positive side I do have to say that the bus routes are scenic and travel along winding roads providing excellent views of smaller villages and the varying landscapes of the country (I could see donkeys, goats and camels everywhere and the most beautiful sunset coming back!).
Another reason why I wouldn’t take this bus again is because of the amount of stops it makes. It literally stops in every single little village! The funny thing is the activities Moroccans engage in on these stops. On one of those stops we stopped at a butchers for the driver to buy some meat. Then there was also one of those stops (not as pleasant) were a mum got off the bus with her daughter for the little girl to have a shit on the road just as if she was a dog (pardon me for being so blunt but I can’t find a more subtle way to describe that scene). I have to mention that sometimes I feel as if I am in a parallel word in this country. As if I am watching a movie but I am inside the movie myself (a crazy and indescribable feeling I know! – but something that has only happened to me here).
Once I arrived in Essaouira and started wondering around its narrow little streets I thought the bus trip was totally worth it! I met a Spanish speaking French lady who was just heading out to buy her son some bananas. She told me she had only been in Essaouira for one week but she seemed like a total local! She gave me a quick tour around the medina (pointing out the best places to eat, shop, etc) and told me that if I felt adventurous enough and did not mind the fishy smell I could head to the port, chose which ever fish I wanted and come back into town for a local cafe to have today’s catch grilled. I decided to stick to a safer bet and eat at a restaurant instead where I ordered the most delicious sardines.
I spent the rest of my afternoon bargaining at local shops, drinking freshly squeezed orange juices (Essaouira’s signature drink) and snapping pictures. This little town provided me with many amazing photo opportunities!
Totally worth a visit if you are in Morocco and want to experience a more chilled out vibe to the usual “Moroccan chaos”.
